End of the Line

       We started the morning with a reconnaissance upriver from Branford in our dinghy. We found that about 12 miles upstream the Suwannee is almost impossible for our dinghy, much less the houseboat. We were cruising around some rapids when we hit bottom, rock bottom. I dinged the prop, it still works though. We could have made it a bit further but once again the possibility of severe damage to our equipment just wasn't worth it. Rapids, shoals, and a hard rock bottom hidden below impenetrable tannic water made further progress analogous to stumbling through a minefield in the dark. Well everyone told us that we could not get much further than Branford, so it was not that unexpected.

       What we did find is an exceptional stretch of this mighty river. The Gulf Sturgeon rules the river here and we were constantly being startled by the soundings of these river giants. They were everywhere. Once again we did not see any over five feet long. I talked to a park employee who claimed that the bigger ones ranging to 9 feet were there, they were just old, and hence did not jump about as the youngsters did. Not sure if that were true or not.

       What was truly exceptional however were the numerous springs along this section of the Suwannee. We explored four which made very short runs into the main river. We broke out the snorkel gear and swam about the largest of the springs for around a hour. The cold 72 degree water took some getting used to but the initial shock was well worth it. Turtles and large fish swam beside us as we gazed down into the abyss. I have no idea how deep the main boil was but I would guess fifty feet or more, and you can clearly see all the way down. Scuba gear is more appropriate to explore further, we were happy hanging about at the surface.

       When we got back to the Mothership we solved our water problem by siphoning jugs of water into the internal water tanks. The water fill ports in the boat were designed by an idiot and this is a bigger deal to overcome than it sounds. In any case, we will not have to ration showers after all! That is a huge deal.
       We loaded up with ice and hit a Laundromat. I changed the oil in the generator. We are ready to head downriver first thing in the morning.

Clean laundry and ice. This dolly saved our trip.

I am about to jump aboard as Tamara waits. We were racing back to the houseboat after a busy day in Branford as storm clouds bore down on us. It started to rain as we got back to the Mothership.

This map shows the major springs along the Suwannee and Santa Fe rivers. Hundreds of smaller springs and boils are not marked. The end of the line was about 4 miles upriver of Troy springs shown on this map.

Contrast Suwanne water to spring run.

If only the Suwannee were this clear!

Tamara smiles as we arrive at Troy Springs State Park to snorkel.

On the third spring of the day water erupts from this crevice located 30 feet from the river bank.

You can see the clear spring water mixing with the tannic waters of the Suwannee. The Suwannee begins life in the Okefenokee Swamp in Georgia. Its deep brown color is the result of rotting plant matter. If the river ran as clear as the springs we could have kept going further. Trouble is that you never know how deep the water is until it is too late. Absent forward looking sonar you are fumbling in the dark. There were times the depth went from 30 to 3 feet almost instantaneously - the only indication being the numbers on the depth finder. Only canoes and kayaks need go further than we did with the river at this level.

The main boil of the first spring of the day. It flows about 100 feet before mixing into the Suwannee.

       Had a encounter with a snake today. I saw a small relatively skinny snake hiding behind our storage container and gas cans on the upstairs deck. He looked harmless. No rattle, not black like a Water Moccasin. I assumed he was some sort of a harmless water snake. I reached down to grab him but his head looked diamond-shaped so I hesitated and he crawled inside the hollow aluminum railings. I did not think much of it. I told Tamara about the snake and she freaked out and said to get it off the boat. He was nowhere to be found.

       Some time later, as Tamara was sunbathing on the forward upper deck I asked her to retrieve the dolly which we keep beside the storage container. I heard her scream. The little snake was slithering out on the deck between her and the dolly. I got a piece of PVC pipe and went up to get him. I smashed his midsection and pinned him against the deck. I then tossed him overboard and saw him swim away downstream.

       As we were sitting here watching the movie "Vanishing Point" on the TV - I consulted the internet to see what kind of snake we had encountered. It turns out it was a baby cottonmouth. Very poisonous.

       Lesson learned:

All snakes are assumed to be bad until proven otherwise!

       Tamara and I are now in complete agreement on the subject of snakes:

 Death to all snakes on board!

http://www.flmnh.ufl.edu/natsci/herpetology/fl-guide/Agkistrodonpconanti.htm#cottonmouth